Medieval & Historic Coins

Hammered Coin Identification: A Collector's Guide

Learn how to identify hammered coins step by step, from spotting hand-struck features to reading legends, using free reference tools, and knowing when they ended.

On this page
  1. What makes a coin hammered
  2. Telltale features
  3. Step-by-step identification
  4. Free tools and reference sources
  5. Are fakes a concern?
  6. When did hammered coinage end?
  7. Is it worth anything?
  8. Found with a metal detector?

What makes a coin hammered

A hammered coin was made by hand. A blank piece of metal, called a flan, was placed between two dies. The lower die was fixed and the upper one was struck with a hammer. This produced coins that are rarely perfectly round, centred or evenly struck, in contrast to later machine-made “milled” coins with regular edges and uniform design.

Hammered coinage covers a huge span: ancient Greek and Roman coins were also struck this way, as were most medieval and early modern European coins. This guide focuses on the medieval and early modern pieces collectors most often meet.

Telltale features

  • Irregular shape: edges may be wavy or uneven, and the coin may be slightly oval.
  • Off-centre or weak strikes: part of the legend or design may be missing because the dies did not land squarely.
  • Clipping: some coins had slivers of silver or gold trimmed away, which is one reason later coins gained edge designs.
  • Cracks and flan flaws: edge splits are common on thin silver.
  • Double striking: a shadowy second image where the coin shifted.

None of these on its own proves a coin is genuine or hammered, since forgers can imitate them, but they are expected features.

Step-by-step identification

  1. Observe the metal. Silver, gold, or base metal? Most medieval English coins you will encounter are silver. Do not scrub or test aggressively; see the cleaning note below.
  2. Measure and weigh. Diameter and weight in grams narrow down the denomination dramatically. A kitchen scale is not good enough; use a small jeweller’s scale with 0.01 g accuracy.
  3. Read the legend. Lettering around the edge often names a ruler and sometimes a mint town. It is frequently abbreviated and may be partly missing.
  4. Look at the portrait and design. Crowned bust, facing or side profile, shield, cross. A cross-and-pellets reverse is typical of many English pennies, and the style of the crown and hair helps to date a portrait.
  5. Check marks. Mint marks and initial marks (small symbols that changed over time) can give a specific date range.
  6. Compare with a reference. Match your findings against a catalogue or database.

See our article on medieval coin names if you are unsure what a denomination such as a groat or a noble is.

Free tools and reference sources

There are several free places to start. Because tools and websites change, check that any you use are currently active.

  • Numista: a free online catalogue of world coins, with images and specifications.
  • The Portable Antiquities Scheme database (UK): a searchable record of finds in England and Wales, useful for comparison.
  • Museum collections online: many national museums publish images of their coin holdings.
  • Collector forums: helpful for second opinions, though always treat opinions as informal.

As for a “totally free app”, image-recognition coin apps exist, but they work better for modern coins and are often unreliable for hammered pieces with weak strikes. Use them as a hint only and confirm in a catalogue.

Are fakes a concern?

Yes. Both period forgeries and modern replicas exist. Warning signs include a cast look (tiny pits, a soft appearance), the wrong weight, a modern-looking edge, and a “too perfect” surface. If a coin seems valuable, get it examined by a reputable dealer or auction house before spending money.

When did hammered coinage end?

Practice varied by country. In England, hammered coins were gradually replaced by milled coinage, and hammered production ended in the early 1660s under Charles II. Other countries used hammered methods for different periods, and some ended earlier or later.

Is it worth anything?

Condition, rarity, and demand all matter. Common medieval silver pennies in worn condition are often modestly priced, while scarce rulers, mints or gold coins can be worth much more. A sound approach is to identify the coin first, then check recent sales of the same type and grade.

Found with a metal detector?

Do not clean the coin. Record where you found it, and if you are in the UK, understand your legal duties, which can include reporting finds that qualify as treasure. Reporting also protects archaeological context; see is a coin an artifact for why that context matters. For a gold example you might meet, see the Florentine florin.

The complete guide to medieval & historic coins

Medieval Coin Names and the Money of the Middle Ages
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